6/19/2003 - Home-Style Barbecue Done Right In Shore.
By Larry Hill
As you know, when it comes to restaurants, I’m always rooting for the little guys.
But every once in a while, the big guys really do it right, and they deserve their due.
A case in point is Lucille’s, a new down-home-style barbecue restaurant in the heart of Belmont Shore.
Jennifer and I have stopped by many times, and Lucille’s is a favorite of many of our family and friends. It all started with my sister-in-law, Kathryn, who had visited Lucille’s several times for their fantastic Smokehouse BBQ Burger. She said it was the best burger she’d ever had, so Jennifer and I had to check it out for ourselves.
Lucille’s had been open for about a month when we stopped by for a late lunch, which is a great time to avoid the hungry masses. Our server immediately brought our drinks, along with a basketful of buttermilk biscuits with honey butter. I am a real biscuit aficionado, and these have great texture and flavor. It’s easy to go through a basket in no time at all. Just ask, and they’ll bring more, but be sure to leave room for an entrée.
The menu has a spectacular list of mouthwatering barbecue specialties, but Jennifer decided to try the famous Smokehouse Burger as her sister recommended. It was massive: half a pound of juicy Angus beef topped with smoked bacon, cheddar and fried onion straws – all set off nicely with a spicy barbecue sauce, smoky and flavorful. It was one of the best burgers she’d ever had, but she could only eat half, so she ended up with two meals for the price of one.
Two sides are included, with a choice of Honey Roasted Peanut Slaw, Shoestring Fries, BBQ Beans, or Potato Salad. Jennifer chose the slaw, which was fresh and sweet, the honey peanuts providing a unique twist, and the barbecued beans, which were cooked to perfection in an iron skillet, and flavored with a onion and spicy sauce.
In a slight nod to the healthier dining, I reluctantly avoided the mouthwatering meat selections and opted for a big salad instead. Once my meal arrived, any traces of sacrifice were long gone. The Lucille’s Checker Club Cobb Salad is a winner: fresh greens, smoked chicken breast and bacon, blue cheese, avocado and egg, all gently tossed with a light balsamic vinaigrette. I’m a big Cobb salad fan, and this was definitely one of the best.
Happily, we returned again this week, and decided to get a bit more adventurous. We were particularly hungry, and the big portions offered at Lucille’s fit the bill. I ordered a full rack of BBQ Beef Ribs. They were tender, meaty and absolutely huge, smoked right to the bone and topped with a zippy honey-based sauce. Despite my appetite, I still brought leftovers home, and had another great meal the next day.
Jennifer selected one of the daily specials: a big bowl of Lucille’s Gumbo. She traveled a bit through the South and eaten authentic gumbo, and was a little reluctant to try it in Southern California. Our server, Michelle, recommended the dish and even offered to bring us a sample. It was excellent: spicy and chock full of seafood, chicken andouille sausage in a perfect roux base. It was the best she’s ever tasted, even better than what she had in the French Quarter and on Beale Street.
Besides great food, one of the nicest things about dining at Lucille’s is the background music. They play the blues exclusively. Both contemporary and traditional: nice, easy and widely appealing. Good music is the perfect complement to a hearty meal, and a rare find indeed, particularly in the chain establishments. I’m sure most of us have had an otherwise good meal ruined by bad background music. Musical tastes are subjective, and it’s a hard thing to get right. Lucille’s, however, does get it right, and it makes a great deal even better.
Lucille’s Smokehouse Bar-B-Que is at 4828 E. 2nd St. in Belmont Shore. Some street parking is available, but the nearby public lots are a better bet. Hours are 11 a.m. to 1
